As an update to the previous post – here is the engine setup on the run stand for it’s first start in 15+ years. You can see the bagged engine in the last update.
A customer tore this bike down 15 years ago by a customer of ours, who had us rebuild the engine, tranmission, and quite a few components.
But after that the project stalled for a decade and a half.
Through a twist of fate, the bike is now back in our hands where we’ve pulled it out of mothball and are now setting off to restore the motorcycle.
It’s time this bike was back together and out there being enojoyed.
More updates to come.
Didn’t have time to start it up this week, ran outta time – but hoping to get it started early next week and film a video of the process.
Here’s a gallery of images (and captions) showing some of the build process.
And here’s a video of the initial startup. The ‘runstand’ that it’s sitting on is actually a product of ours that we’ve been refining to eventually manufacture and offer to the public. We can run engines on them from the 30’s – 90’s.
This is a bit of a unique engine, it’s a 5 inch stroke using Truett and Osborne wheels. We were assembling this lower end for a customer and thought you guys might be intersted in seeing this unique Indian Chief engine.
This is the rest of the 1928 (from our last post) that the customer brought for us to turn into a completely restored motorcyle.
Needless to say we’ve got our work cut out for us.
We’ll post more on this bike as we go through the restore project.
Finally finished a long process with this one – hard to find parts, completely unavailable cylinders… I hunted for a year just to find these.
The engine was brought to us with a 61 cubic inch cylinder on the front, and a 74ci rear – the coil had been eaten by varmints, and plenty of other things along the way.
This engine had quite literally been in a barn for the last-half of last-century.
The owner’s family had originally purchased a farm long ago, and this motorcycle was found in the barn. He had played on it as a child, and now decided it’s time to restore the bike.
Possibly more to come on this project.
After tearing down the engine, we cleaned and inspected the parts and right away noticed the damage to the cams.
You’ve got the option of replacement using an aftermarket set of cams, which at this point we believe there is only a single vendor as an option. The problem with the new cams is that they pay little attention to the diameters of the gears, the pitch of the teeth, etc – and you wind up with a noisy clanking pile of crap.
We much prefer to have the original set of cams, with their correct pitch diameters, refurbished. Above is an example of a set of these refurbished, reground, and re-hardened cams. Mr Leineweber has developed a regrinding process that doesn’t involve any welding, where he moves the heel of the cam up and grinds off the damaged part of the lobe. Then the cam can be re-hardened to factory specs. The only difference is that the heel of the cam will now be a few thousandths lower, so that the tappet adjustment will have to be raised.
This usually is a plus in most older engines, because the valve seats have been lowered from multiple grindings, making it a win-win situation without a downside.
In the photo above note how the generator strap was installed first, so that the generator could be installed and tightened prior to the cam cover installation. This lets you check the clearance between the generator gear and the idler gear. This process is critical, but it’s often overlooked by many engine builders.
To take care of this, install as many paper shims under the generator as required. When the generator screws are tight, and the strap is torqued to 15 ftlbs, the generator gear should have 1-2 thousands of clearance (.001 – .002).
Then you can remove the generator, install the cam cover, and glue the shims in place.
Installed with copper head gaskets, they are first coaTed with 2 coats of copper coat and all the head bolts are treated with anti-seize before they are torqued.
The heads were installed, and then torqued to 45lbs until after warm-up. After that they can go down to 50 ftlbs.